Sunday, March 14, 2010
Feb 24: Surfers Paradise
Mini east coast adventures continued as I made my way to Surfer's Paradise. Often described as a mini-Miami, this place is a hot spot for surfing and partying.
Feb 23: Coff's Harbor and the Big Banana
And the driving tour of the East coast continues as I popped in to Coff's Harbor. Though it isn't especially famous, Coff's Harbor renowed for one thing... the Big Banana.
In fact, Australia is host to many "Big Things"
Wikipedia article
The Big Banana is commonly regarded as the oldest of the "Big Things". I'm not sure if that means it should be treated with a certain amount of reverance and respect, or whether it is socially acceptable to regard it with the ridicule it demands.
In fact, Australia is host to many "Big Things"
Wikipedia article
The Big Banana is commonly regarded as the oldest of the "Big Things". I'm not sure if that means it should be treated with a certain amount of reverance and respect, or whether it is socially acceptable to regard it with the ridicule it demands.
Feb 22: One leak, two leaks, red leak, blue leak!
Monday morning, and I'm off to see the mechanic... this isn't exactly how I imagined spending my Australian vacation. It turns our the truck has an oil leak. Actually it has three minor oil leaks, two that are expensive to fix, and one that will be cheap. The budget option (preferrable choice for those of us with no income) is to buy a can of oil, drive the truck for a while, and see how fast its leaking...
I popped into Newcastle to take in some of the beach on the way up to Port Macquarie.
I popped into Newcastle to take in some of the beach on the way up to Port Macquarie.
Feb 21: A little bit leaky
With the future of the truck in doubt, I needed to start checking out other options. Options include, selling the truck to buy a new van, renting a van for the remainder of the visit, or just hopping a plane to Fiji...
But no matter how I looked at the problem, it made sense to wait to have my new friend Steve the mechanic look it over to let me know the state of affairs. It is times like this I wish I had more practical skills. Solving linear programming problems optimally doesn't look like it is going to help me out much in this situation.
But no matter how I looked at the problem, it made sense to wait to have my new friend Steve the mechanic look it over to let me know the state of affairs. It is times like this I wish I had more practical skills. Solving linear programming problems optimally doesn't look like it is going to help me out much in this situation.
Feb 20: Hunter Valley
There are three major wine regions in Australia. The Hunter Valley is only a couple of hours north of Sydney, and seemed like a nice place to stop in as I plodded north towards some of the "beachier" areas.
As I pulled up to a lookout point, to get a nice view of the valley below, I noticed a non-trivial amount of smoke coming from under the hood... Looks like Steve was going to get another look at the truck afterall. I made my was back to Sydney. Fingers crossed it is just a little oil leak somewhere...
As I pulled up to a lookout point, to get a nice view of the valley below, I noticed a non-trivial amount of smoke coming from under the hood... Looks like Steve was going to get another look at the truck afterall. I made my was back to Sydney. Fingers crossed it is just a little oil leak somewhere...
Feb 19: Sydney Beaches
Touring of Sydney continued the next day, as I explored some of the famous beaches: Bondi Beach, and Manly Beach. I also visited one of the best kept secrets around: the North Curl pool.
I'm not sure if there is anywhere else in the world they build "rock pools" adjacent to the ocean. In this case, two of the sides of the pool are natural. The first is a giant cliff face; the natural escarpment around that defines this part of the coast. The other is an extension of the rocks that juts into the ocean, protecting swimmers from waves as they crash into it, washing new water into the pool, pushing out water previously trapped, continuously naturally cleaning it out. If you had to pick a pool to swim lengths, you would be hard pressed to find a place quite as special as the North Curl pool.
I'm not sure if there is anywhere else in the world they build "rock pools" adjacent to the ocean. In this case, two of the sides of the pool are natural. The first is a giant cliff face; the natural escarpment around that defines this part of the coast. The other is an extension of the rocks that juts into the ocean, protecting swimmers from waves as they crash into it, washing new water into the pool, pushing out water previously trapped, continuously naturally cleaning it out. If you had to pick a pool to swim lengths, you would be hard pressed to find a place quite as special as the North Curl pool.
Feb 18: Playing Tourist in Sydney
Somewhat resigned to the fact that I was already in the city, I decided to get to know Sydney a little better. On a rather lovely Thursday, I did a tour of the botanic gardens, and the Opera house, before hopping on a double decker bus tour of downtown. Much like Toronto, the city seems a lot smaller once you start to recognize big streets and major landmarks.
Feb 17: Does anyone else love Fruit Bats?
Picked up the truck and went to the open air cinema. Upon picking up the truck Steve let me know that he had fixed everything he could find.... there was an outside chance there was still a little bit of oil leaking, and if I had a chance I should come back in a couple of days just so they could have a peak and make sure it was ok. I drove it away, hoping I wouldn't have to see them again.
The open air cinema is sort of like a cross between a drive-in, a tourist walk, and going to see a show. You watch a movie (in this case Sherlock Holmes) over the bay, with the downtown showcasing the Opera House and the Sydney Harbour bridge in the backdrop just as the sun finishes setting. The only drawback is the bats. There is a colony of some 40,000 fruit bats, with bodies the size of cats, and wingspans that must be 3 or 4 feet across. They are everywhere - and they occasionally swoop in front of the screen, or wiggle trees above, raining seeds and pods down on unsuspecting victims below. Contrary to most of the other movie patrons... I love the bats. Note to self, plan a day to get a better look at these guys.
The open air cinema is sort of like a cross between a drive-in, a tourist walk, and going to see a show. You watch a movie (in this case Sherlock Holmes) over the bay, with the downtown showcasing the Opera House and the Sydney Harbour bridge in the backdrop just as the sun finishes setting. The only drawback is the bats. There is a colony of some 40,000 fruit bats, with bodies the size of cats, and wingspans that must be 3 or 4 feet across. They are everywhere - and they occasionally swoop in front of the screen, or wiggle trees above, raining seeds and pods down on unsuspecting victims below. Contrary to most of the other movie patrons... I love the bats. Note to self, plan a day to get a better look at these guys.
Feb 16: Peaches gets an overhaul
Today I was hoping to pick up the truck... but she wasn't ready.
When I bought the truck, I asked to have it inspected... to make sure it had a "pink slip" trying to use the local lingo. Unfortunately, this is different from a "green slip", which is different again from a "white slip". The "pink slip" was something to do with checking to see if it had seatbelts. Slips aside... Peaches is going to need some serious work, and is going to be in for a couple of days. Most of it is routine maintenance as opposed to damage.
When I bought the truck, I asked to have it inspected... to make sure it had a "pink slip" trying to use the local lingo. Unfortunately, this is different from a "green slip", which is different again from a "white slip". The "pink slip" was something to do with checking to see if it had seatbelts. Slips aside... Peaches is going to need some serious work, and is going to be in for a couple of days. Most of it is routine maintenance as opposed to damage.
Feb 15: Peaches get her first service!
I am officially back in Sydney and the Pajero is going in for service.
She isn't exactly brand new, and I figure I'm going to find some quirks and kinks that need to be worked out... better to know about them before I get on a road. Victoria's brother Steve is a mechanic, and has offered to look over the vehicle.
She isn't exactly brand new, and I figure I'm going to find some quirks and kinks that need to be worked out... better to know about them before I get on a road. Victoria's brother Steve is a mechanic, and has offered to look over the vehicle.
Feb 14: Happy Valentine's Day!
Happy Valentine's Day! It is another blustery day in the Blue Mountains. On Mei's suggestion, I've decided to check out the Jenolan caves. This tourist attraction is a series of walks, guided and unguided through incredible natural caves through the heart of the Blue Mountains. It boasts enormous chambers with stellar natural formations made as the limestone is slowly disintegrated by water from all directions.
Of all the things I've seen in Australia so far, this is the least expected and one of the most thought provoking. It feels a little like some sort of junior high school science field trip. In the photo you can see one rock formation that looks like a caterpillar. This is a stromatalite formation, created by some of the oldest "living" creatures in the world. They are sort of a single celled slime that are believed to be largely responsible for creating the atmosphere... the rock is a waste product, built up over thousands of years. This is one of maybe 3 places in the world you can see them in action!
Of all the things I've seen in Australia so far, this is the least expected and one of the most thought provoking. It feels a little like some sort of junior high school science field trip. In the photo you can see one rock formation that looks like a caterpillar. This is a stromatalite formation, created by some of the oldest "living" creatures in the world. They are sort of a single celled slime that are believed to be largely responsible for creating the atmosphere... the rock is a waste product, built up over thousands of years. This is one of maybe 3 places in the world you can see them in action!
Feb 13: Katoomba
It is foggy, and raining... Instead of long nature walks, we were relegated to wandering the streets of Katoomba, a tiny little tourist town in the heart of the Blue Mountains. We had a lovely afternoon, wandering the streets, taking it easy, and enjoying the scenery.
I drank a cup of coffee. It might be the first time I've had a coffee in ten years. I asked the waitress for "tap water", and I think she misheard me, with my wacky Canadian accent. She brought be a "flat black" instead. Five heaping spoonfuls of sugar later, and I had moved to the dark side. For now.
I drank a cup of coffee. It might be the first time I've had a coffee in ten years. I asked the waitress for "tap water", and I think she misheard me, with my wacky Canadian accent. She brought be a "flat black" instead. Five heaping spoonfuls of sugar later, and I had moved to the dark side. For now.
Feb 12: Truck conversion
It seems that no matter how far you go, you can't seem to escape paperwork. I spent the morning collecting registration and insurance for the Pajero. In a strange twist of irony, I get a multi-vehicle discount on insurance, because I've still got the van insured, and I still qualify for a no-claims discount because the claim writing off the van hasn't gone through yet. I am careful to point this out, because I want to make sure there is no chance that I will have a potential insurance claim voided in any way... But they smile and nod, and proceed. No holes in that system...
The day gets more fun as I start ripping out truck seats, and building a bed frame. After a couple of hours, some help from Matt, and "longneck" bottle of beer (750mL) we complete v1 of the bedframe. It isn't something that will stand the test of time, but it should hold out for the weekend.
Eager to give the bed on wheels a go, I scurried out to the Blue Moutains to enjoy some peace and quiet out of the hustle and bustle of the city.
Night 1 in the Pajero (roughly the size of a Nissan Pathfinder or Toyota Forerunner) was good. It is more cramped than the van, but will be just fine for one person.
The day gets more fun as I start ripping out truck seats, and building a bed frame. After a couple of hours, some help from Matt, and "longneck" bottle of beer (750mL) we complete v1 of the bedframe. It isn't something that will stand the test of time, but it should hold out for the weekend.
Eager to give the bed on wheels a go, I scurried out to the Blue Moutains to enjoy some peace and quiet out of the hustle and bustle of the city.
Night 1 in the Pajero (roughly the size of a Nissan Pathfinder or Toyota Forerunner) was good. It is more cramped than the van, but will be just fine for one person.
Feb 11: Vehicular Swapping
The truck is officially ready for pickup. I go to find her and pickup a foam bed on the way home. I say goodbye to the Marla Magna, and get ready to start converting Peaches the Pajero.
Feb 10: Beers on the Patio
Now I've essentially gone about a month without booze (which is probably why I feel so fantastic). I haven't sworn off drinking by any stretch, it is just that I have been living healthy.
But it is a warm summer day. I am enjoying the sun.
And Matt has invited me for a beer.
And I don't have anything to do.
I can't remember the last time beer tasted this good.
But it is a warm summer day. I am enjoying the sun.
And Matt has invited me for a beer.
And I don't have anything to do.
I can't remember the last time beer tasted this good.
Feb 9: Sydney Fishmarket
I have a couple of days to pick up the truck, so I've got a chance to explore a little bit. I spend the afternoon with Ken, Victoria, Marcus and Gemma (whom you may remember from my very early days in Sydney).
After a quick swim, we went for sushi near Pyrmont, and then they gave me a latenight tour of the famous fishmarket across the street.
After a quick swim, we went for sushi near Pyrmont, and then they gave me a latenight tour of the famous fishmarket across the street.
Feb 8: Van shopping... day 2
I made my way across the city to visit a place called Arncliffe. It is a bit of a hike from Manly, but it is jam-packed with used-car dealerships.
Though I am most interested in finding a van, I would be pleased to find anything that has enough space to sleep in, and air conditioning. Long drives are intolerable if you have to sit and stew in a puddle of your own sweat.
Enter the Mitsubishi Pajero, a 4x4 with a long wheel base, meant for passenger transport, so it is built with a driver in mind - as opposed to the typical utility van conversions which are built entirely around practicality instead of comfort. I found a fellow selling a Pajero, who was willing to take the Tasmanian Magna on a trade. And it was a bargain... maybe too good a deal...
[note: I was later informed by Chilean born Oscar, that in Spanish, Pajero means wanker. This should have been my first warning]
And so today, I bought my third Australian car in a month.
Though I am most interested in finding a van, I would be pleased to find anything that has enough space to sleep in, and air conditioning. Long drives are intolerable if you have to sit and stew in a puddle of your own sweat.
Enter the Mitsubishi Pajero, a 4x4 with a long wheel base, meant for passenger transport, so it is built with a driver in mind - as opposed to the typical utility van conversions which are built entirely around practicality instead of comfort. I found a fellow selling a Pajero, who was willing to take the Tasmanian Magna on a trade. And it was a bargain... maybe too good a deal...
[note: I was later informed by Chilean born Oscar, that in Spanish, Pajero means wanker. This should have been my first warning]
And so today, I bought my third Australian car in a month.
Feb 7: Van shopping... again...
I am finally back in Sydney, getting ready to shop for vans again. This time, I have a few days on my hands, and I've got a car to get me from place to place. Day 1 of van shopping had me stopped at a place called Kings Cross, a notorious backpacker hangout - where potential van sellers park their cars up and down Margaret Street and wait patiently as passers-by come to inspect their temporary homes. Since van-camping across Australia is so popular, there are always quite a few people looking to sell.
It is a nice change from dealing with car salesmen.
It would be nicer if the vans were in better shape.
Today I realized exactly how lucky I had been to find Trusty Rusty. She was a gem of gems in this lot of recycled and beat-up work vans. Despite her many dents and flaws, she was mechanically invicible, and a youngster at a mere 11 years old.
I will have to test out other options tomorrow.
And go see more vans! (the exclamation point is me trying to muster up some enthusiasm about shopping)
Oscar, Matt and Anna have been very kind to offer to let me stay for as long as it takes to sort things out. With a house one street off the popular Manly Beach it is very hard to say no. I feel lucky to have met such wonderful people.
It is a nice change from dealing with car salesmen.
It would be nicer if the vans were in better shape.
Today I realized exactly how lucky I had been to find Trusty Rusty. She was a gem of gems in this lot of recycled and beat-up work vans. Despite her many dents and flaws, she was mechanically invicible, and a youngster at a mere 11 years old.
I will have to test out other options tomorrow.
And go see more vans! (the exclamation point is me trying to muster up some enthusiasm about shopping)
Oscar, Matt and Anna have been very kind to offer to let me stay for as long as it takes to sort things out. With a house one street off the popular Manly Beach it is very hard to say no. I feel lucky to have met such wonderful people.
Feb 6: Driving with Lou Rawls
Unlike Trusty Rusty, the Magna does not have a tape deck. It has a CD player. My ipod adapter is a old school tape adapter... so I can't listen to the sweet sounds of motown today. Desperate for some music to breakup the day long drive from Melbourne to Canberra, I decided to buy a CD from a local gas station.
There was a fun barbecue place in Toronto called Lou Rawls that made barbecue and played live jazz/soul music. When I spotted a CD at the gas station I had to give it a test run. Lou is sort of like a cross between Barry White and Stevie Wonder. Getting the CD into the CD player was easy. To my dismay, it took me the better part of a day and a half to find the pin sized button on the top?!? of the receiver to figure out how to get the CD out. So just in case it is helpful at parties or karaoke, I am now pleased to note that I can sing word for word, the collected works of Lou Rawls.
There was a fun barbecue place in Toronto called Lou Rawls that made barbecue and played live jazz/soul music. When I spotted a CD at the gas station I had to give it a test run. Lou is sort of like a cross between Barry White and Stevie Wonder. Getting the CD into the CD player was easy. To my dismay, it took me the better part of a day and a half to find the pin sized button on the top?!? of the receiver to figure out how to get the CD out. So just in case it is helpful at parties or karaoke, I am now pleased to note that I can sing word for word, the collected works of Lou Rawls.
Feb 5: Marla the Magna
Marla, the Mitsubishi Magna is amazing. It flies up hills, and cruises easily along the open roads. I made it across Tasmania to the ferry without incident. The ferry ride will take the better part of the day, starting at 6am, inching along to arrive in Melbourne at a leisurely 6pm.
Today is a good day to catchup on some of R&R... reading and writing :)
Today is a good day to catchup on some of R&R... reading and writing :)
Feb 4: New plans
With no van, I am somewhat sensitive about the progress of my trip. This is probably the first time I have felt stress in the last month. No big deal... I will rent a car, drive my stuff to Sydney, and find a new van.
At least that was the plan.
I spoke to every car rental company I could find. None of them would let me take the car out of state, let along all the way to Sydney. I needed to come up with another solution.
So I bought a car. For $900, I bought a 1994 Mitsubishi Magna Executive. I think I will call her Marla the Magna. This is the first car I've ever owned that came with tinted windows and a spoiler. With just over 350,000km, she wasn't exactly brand new. But I wasn't going to ask her for much... just to get me up the coast.
My second car in 6 weeks.
The adventure continues.
At least that was the plan.
I spoke to every car rental company I could find. None of them would let me take the car out of state, let along all the way to Sydney. I needed to come up with another solution.
So I bought a car. For $900, I bought a 1994 Mitsubishi Magna Executive. I think I will call her Marla the Magna. This is the first car I've ever owned that came with tinted windows and a spoiler. With just over 350,000km, she wasn't exactly brand new. But I wasn't going to ask her for much... just to get me up the coast.
My second car in 6 weeks.
The adventure continues.
Feb 3: The Flip
Tasmania is the sort of place you would imagine if you were thinking up fairy tales. It has deep lush forest filled with huge, craggly old trees; jagged mountains made up of huge boulders and steep passes. There are waterfalls at every turn, a diverse range of wildlife, and a wild part of the sea known as the roaring 40s, where waves of 20m have been known to crash along the rocky shore. It is inspiring, natural, and breath-takingly spectacular.
I was on my way from Wineglass bay to Launceston. There was a steady stream of rain, the sort you expect from a low flow shower head. Not enough to cause concern, but just enough to keep your windsheild wipers on all the time. I had been driving for about an hour. The road was narrow and windy. I was making my way through vineyard country, a relatively new industry in this perfect pocket of sun, mountains, and mist.
As I came around a bend to the right, I could feel the back tires start to slip out from behind me. This is mildly ironic, since I had noted earlier that morning that most vehicles back home had moved away from rear wheel drive in order to limit skidding and sliding on the ice. The road was some sort of asphalt... it was greasy, or oily... not at all unlike the conditions of a Canadian winter. The paved section of the road ended at the edge of my lane... As the skidding tires touched the gravel, the vehicle was immediately kicked into a fishtail.
I wrestled with the van, struggling to keep it in my lane and out of the oncoming traffic. I switched directions three times, swerving hard to the right, hard to the left, and then hard to the right again. Three oncoming cars drove past, as I careened out of control. As I slowed down, I felt the van swing out perpendicular to the road... and I rolled over. It seemed like it was happening in slow motion. The van touched down on its side, and then rolled to a stop on its roof across both lanes of traffic.
I hung motionless upside down, as my seatbelt caught me upside down like a fancy race harness. Panicked by the thought of being hit while helpless by some sort of semi-trailer, I immediately unbuckled my belt, turned off the engine, and kicked out my door; scrambling to the safety of the gravel ditch. I did a quick physical check... no bumps, no bleeding... not even a scratch. Obviously, this was not my time to go. Trusty Rusty had managed to keep me from harms way; giant bends in the roll bars above my head show just how close I came to sustaining a major injury. I have since decided that I am invincible. Looking back, the only trace of an accident was a minor bruise on my hip, where the seatbelt clung desperately to hold me upside down.
In retrospect, I have decided that the roof is the fourth hardest side to land on when rolling-over a Ford Econovan. The two easiest are the right and left side, which simply require you to tip the vehicle. Of course the hardest ones would include rolling it back onto its wheels, or somehow managing to stand it up on one of its ends.
Helpful passers-by were at my side immediately. One fellow came to check me out, the other started calling the police. A fellow with a giant 4x4 helped to coordinate the dragging of the van off the road, and flipping it right side up once again. After meeting with the police and then a doctor, I got a ride with the tow truck driver back to the state capital of Hobart.
I have always thought I was lucky. Not in a lottery winning sort of way... but kind of like there is someone looking out for me. I have never felt quite so singularily fortunate as when my car flipped and I walked away unscathed.
I was on my way from Wineglass bay to Launceston. There was a steady stream of rain, the sort you expect from a low flow shower head. Not enough to cause concern, but just enough to keep your windsheild wipers on all the time. I had been driving for about an hour. The road was narrow and windy. I was making my way through vineyard country, a relatively new industry in this perfect pocket of sun, mountains, and mist.
As I came around a bend to the right, I could feel the back tires start to slip out from behind me. This is mildly ironic, since I had noted earlier that morning that most vehicles back home had moved away from rear wheel drive in order to limit skidding and sliding on the ice. The road was some sort of asphalt... it was greasy, or oily... not at all unlike the conditions of a Canadian winter. The paved section of the road ended at the edge of my lane... As the skidding tires touched the gravel, the vehicle was immediately kicked into a fishtail.
I wrestled with the van, struggling to keep it in my lane and out of the oncoming traffic. I switched directions three times, swerving hard to the right, hard to the left, and then hard to the right again. Three oncoming cars drove past, as I careened out of control. As I slowed down, I felt the van swing out perpendicular to the road... and I rolled over. It seemed like it was happening in slow motion. The van touched down on its side, and then rolled to a stop on its roof across both lanes of traffic.
I hung motionless upside down, as my seatbelt caught me upside down like a fancy race harness. Panicked by the thought of being hit while helpless by some sort of semi-trailer, I immediately unbuckled my belt, turned off the engine, and kicked out my door; scrambling to the safety of the gravel ditch. I did a quick physical check... no bumps, no bleeding... not even a scratch. Obviously, this was not my time to go. Trusty Rusty had managed to keep me from harms way; giant bends in the roll bars above my head show just how close I came to sustaining a major injury. I have since decided that I am invincible. Looking back, the only trace of an accident was a minor bruise on my hip, where the seatbelt clung desperately to hold me upside down.
In retrospect, I have decided that the roof is the fourth hardest side to land on when rolling-over a Ford Econovan. The two easiest are the right and left side, which simply require you to tip the vehicle. Of course the hardest ones would include rolling it back onto its wheels, or somehow managing to stand it up on one of its ends.
Helpful passers-by were at my side immediately. One fellow came to check me out, the other started calling the police. A fellow with a giant 4x4 helped to coordinate the dragging of the van off the road, and flipping it right side up once again. After meeting with the police and then a doctor, I got a ride with the tow truck driver back to the state capital of Hobart.
I have always thought I was lucky. Not in a lottery winning sort of way... but kind of like there is someone looking out for me. I have never felt quite so singularily fortunate as when my car flipped and I walked away unscathed.
Feb 2: Wineglass Bay
How would you like to start your day? How about a breakfast on the patio in the sun, tucked amidst blooming rose bushes and a robust garden, enjoying conversation with new friends about life. I met up with Isabelle and Olivier to pick up the aforementioned bike in Hobart. They invited me to stay for awhile, to rest, catch up, and enjoy the morning.
Bike in hand, I made my way to Wineglass Bay. Freycinet National Park is host to a couple of world class beaches. Wineglass Bay specifically has grown recently famous based on travels articles and the like. It is a 2 hour hike in and out to the beach, which makes it a little bit more exclusive than most. When I finished the walk, I found myself standing on a white sand beach with a grand total of 2 other people.
Today was the first time I picked up a hitchhiker. A French fellow wandering the highway was looking for a lift. I shared my lunch with him... and then dropped him off. I'm sure he won't be the last traveller I pick up along the way.
Bike in hand, I made my way to Wineglass Bay. Freycinet National Park is host to a couple of world class beaches. Wineglass Bay specifically has grown recently famous based on travels articles and the like. It is a 2 hour hike in and out to the beach, which makes it a little bit more exclusive than most. When I finished the walk, I found myself standing on a white sand beach with a grand total of 2 other people.
Today was the first time I picked up a hitchhiker. A French fellow wandering the highway was looking for a lift. I shared my lunch with him... and then dropped him off. I'm sure he won't be the last traveller I pick up along the way.
Feb 1: Trusty Rusty gets a checkup
Today Trusty Rusty got her first checkup.
I decided after driving her 4000km, that I should take her in to visit with a mechanic. She got a few new plugs, a new oil filter and was diagnosed as being in stellar shape for her age... more than we can say for her owner :)
[as an aside: I classify all my cars as feminine based on the fact that they bring me heartache and cost me money. Previous cars have included Henrietta the Jetta, Deloris the Dodge, and Indiana (Innie) the Audi]
Just south of Hobart, I visited some of the rock formations on the Tasman peninsula. The Tasman Arch, and the Devil's Kitchen are variations on the same sort of rock formation - built as the water chews out a hole in the cliffs, through years of crashing against the rocks.
I decided after driving her 4000km, that I should take her in to visit with a mechanic. She got a few new plugs, a new oil filter and was diagnosed as being in stellar shape for her age... more than we can say for her owner :)
[as an aside: I classify all my cars as feminine based on the fact that they bring me heartache and cost me money. Previous cars have included Henrietta the Jetta, Deloris the Dodge, and Indiana (Innie) the Audi]
Just south of Hobart, I visited some of the rock formations on the Tasman peninsula. The Tasman Arch, and the Devil's Kitchen are variations on the same sort of rock formation - built as the water chews out a hole in the cliffs, through years of crashing against the rocks.
Jan 31: Hobart
Hobart is the capital city of Tasmania, with around 250,000 citizens. It is large enough to have all the major amenities of a big city, but small enough to keep some small town charm. There are a couple of major tourist attractions that you absolutely have to see when you stop in Hobart.
1) The Salamanca Market: an old style market turned trendy.
Easily the coolest part of town, this area is down by the harbour in the centre of town. It boasts wine shops, pubs, tourist markets, and art shops. It reminds me a little of the Distillery District in Toronto.
2) Mount Wellington is a mountain that towers over the city. The tippy-top of it has a couple of great long walks where you can enjoy panoramic views of the city and the adjacent coastlines.
My personal highlight of Hobart was checking into my campsite at 10am, so that I could have a MUCH needed shower two mornings in a row.
1) The Salamanca Market: an old style market turned trendy.
Easily the coolest part of town, this area is down by the harbour in the centre of town. It boasts wine shops, pubs, tourist markets, and art shops. It reminds me a little of the Distillery District in Toronto.
2) Mount Wellington is a mountain that towers over the city. The tippy-top of it has a couple of great long walks where you can enjoy panoramic views of the city and the adjacent coastlines.
My personal highlight of Hobart was checking into my campsite at 10am, so that I could have a MUCH needed shower two mornings in a row.
Jan 30: Lake St Claire and the Tall Tall Trees
The Lake St. Claire area is the exit point for the famous 6-day overland track hike. I took a ferry across the lake to the starting point of a trail and prepared for the 6 hour slog back to the car. It is a supernatural wooded area, with towering ecalyptus trees that reminded me just how small I really am. It is a magical kind of place. I took a couple of photos, but they don't do this very special experience justice. Though I do not consider myself to be a religious person, this might be the closest I've come to a holy moment in my life. Awestruck and sweat-soaked, I wandered onwards through the woods.
Eager to keep pushing along, I made my way to Mt. Field National Park, to see Russell Falls (no relation) and the Valley of Tall Trees, eventually ending up in Hobart.
Eager to keep pushing along, I made my way to Mt. Field National Park, to see Russell Falls (no relation) and the Valley of Tall Trees, eventually ending up in Hobart.
Jan 29: Playpus Hunter Success!
Strahan is community built around the pine industry. Or at least it was. The Huon pine tree is very special. It is made up of special oils that resist rotting, which made it exceptionally valuable to the ship building industry of the 1800s. A penal colony was set up on Sara Island to supply labor. As part of my day in Strahan, I did a boat tour up the Gordon River to see some of the remaining Huon pine forests, and to see Sara Island. To be sent to the penal colony, you needed to do something terrible... like get drunk in public, or show up to work late on a regular basis. So 200 years ago, there is a good chance, I (and most everyone I consort with... wihch probably includes you) would have ended up in one of these prison camps. There are a group of four national parks in Tasmania which collectively make up a world heritage site, preserved for the incredible natural parks, and the cultural remnants associated with the penal colony.
On the boat ride, I met a couple of Tasmanians, Isabelle and Olivier. Brother and sister, they are originally from Hobart and were on a sight seeing trip with their Dad. In a strange cosmic twist, Isabelle had a bike she wanted to get to Melbourne a week later... and I would be driving my van back to Melbourne a week later. Must have been fate. I planned to meet up with them later to pick up the bike.
I decided to spend my evening driving over to Lake St. Claire.
On my more or less impossible quest to see a platypus in the wild, I decided to do a night hike over to a place called Platypus Bay. Seemed like a good place to look :) And in the light of the full moon, off in the distance, I could see a tiny little log in the water, that disappeared under the water. Then it popped up every minute or so... which I'm told is the most anyone ever really sees of the platypus. Success! One of my two primary objectives crossed off the list.
And then, as a bonus, on my way back to the campsite, I came across a momma possum carrying around her nearly full grown youngster. Freeloader!
On the boat ride, I met a couple of Tasmanians, Isabelle and Olivier. Brother and sister, they are originally from Hobart and were on a sight seeing trip with their Dad. In a strange cosmic twist, Isabelle had a bike she wanted to get to Melbourne a week later... and I would be driving my van back to Melbourne a week later. Must have been fate. I planned to meet up with them later to pick up the bike.
I decided to spend my evening driving over to Lake St. Claire.
On my more or less impossible quest to see a platypus in the wild, I decided to do a night hike over to a place called Platypus Bay. Seemed like a good place to look :) And in the light of the full moon, off in the distance, I could see a tiny little log in the water, that disappeared under the water. Then it popped up every minute or so... which I'm told is the most anyone ever really sees of the platypus. Success! One of my two primary objectives crossed off the list.
And then, as a bonus, on my way back to the campsite, I came across a momma possum carrying around her nearly full grown youngster. Freeloader!
Jan 28: Montezuma Falls
I decided to make my way towards Stahan, an old logging town for the famous Huon pine. On my way, I passed a place called Montezuma falls. It is a gentle walk through the forest to a spectacular 104m set of falls. The trail is built on an old set of mining rail track, which have since been overrun by nature (one for the good guys!)
This is officially my one month anniversary in Australia.
I think it is worth noting that this is the happiest and healthiest I've felt in years. I am enjoying every second of my time here, and I am so grateful for the chance to see this part of the world.
This is officially my one month anniversary in Australia.
I think it is worth noting that this is the happiest and healthiest I've felt in years. I am enjoying every second of my time here, and I am so grateful for the chance to see this part of the world.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Jan 27: The Perfect Day
Groggy and still half asleep, I left the ferry unsure of which direction to head. I had booked 9 days to explore Tasmania, but consistent with my adventure to date, I had no plan whatsoever.
I decided to turn right our of Devonport, aiming for Cradle Mountain. Cradle Mountain is saddle shaped, and ends up on all kinds of Tasmanian postcards. I have been hiking in several parts of the world... and to date this is EASILY my favorite. You scramble up boulders, heaving yourself up the hill. This is the first day of a 6 day bushwalk called the overland track - which is commonly regarded as a world class hike.
And as a special bonus, when I finished my hike, there was a "wombat walk" going on where I got a chance to learn more about the wombat. Did you know a wombat has a top speed of 40km an hour (humans top out around 35), and is the only marsupial with a pouch that faces downwards so that it doesn't fill up with dirt while they dig?
I ended my day parked at the side of a placid lake in the mountains. As I stood silently, listening to the sound of the fish jump, a little wallaby snuck up beside me to have a drink at the edge of the water. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.
I decided to turn right our of Devonport, aiming for Cradle Mountain. Cradle Mountain is saddle shaped, and ends up on all kinds of Tasmanian postcards. I have been hiking in several parts of the world... and to date this is EASILY my favorite. You scramble up boulders, heaving yourself up the hill. This is the first day of a 6 day bushwalk called the overland track - which is commonly regarded as a world class hike.
And as a special bonus, when I finished my hike, there was a "wombat walk" going on where I got a chance to learn more about the wombat. Did you know a wombat has a top speed of 40km an hour (humans top out around 35), and is the only marsupial with a pouch that faces downwards so that it doesn't fill up with dirt while they dig?
I ended my day parked at the side of a placid lake in the mountains. As I stood silently, listening to the sound of the fish jump, a little wallaby snuck up beside me to have a drink at the edge of the water. It was the perfect end to a perfect day.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
