Friday, January 22, 2010
Jan 22: Melbourne!
So I completed the interim land based leg of my trip to Tasmania ending in Melbourne. My first day here has been far from exciting. I've spent most of my time trying to coordinate the upcoming couple of weeks - booking tickets to Tasmania, tickets to the Australian open on Sunday, and trying to sort out a place to stay in town. Note to self - when an international tennis tournament comes to town - book accomodation in advance! :)
Jan 20: How I lost the use of both arms for two days
Today was just as good as any other to try kayaking. Lake's Entrance is an easy place to test it out, because you are only allowed to rent kayaks on the lake (instead of the ocean). After my 20 minute rental of paddling around on a "paddle ski" I understood why they rent them out in 20 minute intervals. I am sure I will barely be able to move my arms tomorrow.
I made my way to Port Franklin, a base point for fishermen, giving me a short drive to the Wilson Point National Park the next day.
I made my way to Port Franklin, a base point for fishermen, giving me a short drive to the Wilson Point National Park the next day.
Jan 19: Who is Ben Boyd?
I decided I was going to hunt down a beach to start my day with a swim in the ocean. I enterred Ben Boyd National park. The park is named after a interesting character who (as far as I can tell) swindled and cheated people until his disappearance in the early 1850s.
Wikipedia entry: Ben Boyd
I made my way to the beach to discover I was one of two people on the beach, the second being a middle aged Australian fisherman.
In either direction there was white sand, as far as I could see. They call is 7 mile beach. Because is it 7 miles of beach. I respect the descriptive simplicity of whoever it was who named this place.
I puttered up the coast to a place called Genoa, the first place I saw the famous Black Swans. From there I made my way to Lake's Entrance, famous for being the start of the 90 mile beach.
Wikipedia entry: Ben Boyd
I made my way to the beach to discover I was one of two people on the beach, the second being a middle aged Australian fisherman.
In either direction there was white sand, as far as I could see. They call is 7 mile beach. Because is it 7 miles of beach. I respect the descriptive simplicity of whoever it was who named this place.
I puttered up the coast to a place called Genoa, the first place I saw the famous Black Swans. From there I made my way to Lake's Entrance, famous for being the start of the 90 mile beach.
Jan 18: South!
Another day, another swim in the ocean.
Today I'm going to start my big trek South. I'm determined to get to Tasmania in the first part of my trip, while the weather is still hospitable. As the southern most part of the country, it sees swings in temperature much more comparable to Canada than most of the rest of the mainland. It is supposed to be a natural paradise, with all kinds of wonderful hiking and walking...
I still don't really have a plan. There are no particular dates I'm trying to hit - just places. I figure I'll drive for a while tonight, and stop when I find a place worth stopping at.
This plan proved to be a little looser than required. I ended up driving until past dark, and twice nearly hit kangaroos. My first real sighting of the full-side cousin of the Wallaby about 3 feet away in the next lane over, as I was doing about 100km/h.
I pulled over at a service road to a water damn - in the pitch black. I doubt there was another person for 10km in any direction. I looked up and I swear I've never seen so many stars. Instead of little pin pricks of light, they were in big patches and swaths, clearly forming clouds and constellations. It was awe-inspiring and overwhelming.
I reflected briefly on my time in Toronto... There is something comfortable about living in a little glas box high above the street, driving a cool car to a temperature controlled cubicle to sit in front of an awfully predictable computer monitor for 10 to 12 hours a day... Life seems so much more fragile and volatile when you stare up and can barely comprehend the limitless nature of the stars, that you can't see beneath the glow of the big city.
Today I'm going to start my big trek South. I'm determined to get to Tasmania in the first part of my trip, while the weather is still hospitable. As the southern most part of the country, it sees swings in temperature much more comparable to Canada than most of the rest of the mainland. It is supposed to be a natural paradise, with all kinds of wonderful hiking and walking...
I still don't really have a plan. There are no particular dates I'm trying to hit - just places. I figure I'll drive for a while tonight, and stop when I find a place worth stopping at.
This plan proved to be a little looser than required. I ended up driving until past dark, and twice nearly hit kangaroos. My first real sighting of the full-side cousin of the Wallaby about 3 feet away in the next lane over, as I was doing about 100km/h.
I pulled over at a service road to a water damn - in the pitch black. I doubt there was another person for 10km in any direction. I looked up and I swear I've never seen so many stars. Instead of little pin pricks of light, they were in big patches and swaths, clearly forming clouds and constellations. It was awe-inspiring and overwhelming.
I reflected briefly on my time in Toronto... There is something comfortable about living in a little glas box high above the street, driving a cool car to a temperature controlled cubicle to sit in front of an awfully predictable computer monitor for 10 to 12 hours a day... Life seems so much more fragile and volatile when you stare up and can barely comprehend the limitless nature of the stars, that you can't see beneath the glow of the big city.
Jan 17: Movie in the Harbor
I returned triumphantly to Sydney to see my good friends Oscar, Mei and Tom again. Mei had arranged for us to see the Open-Air cinema showing of "The Road". It is a dark and depressing movie, shown at a breath-taking and spectacular venue. You can watch a movie, on a screen over the harbor from the Royal Botanic Gardens overlooking downtown and the iconic Sydney Opera House. It was amazing... and totally worth the itsy-bitsy bit of back-tracking.
Jan 16: Kangaroo Valley...
I've decided to make my way to a place called Kangaroo Valley. It reminds me a little of Canmore - super touristy - in an amazing natural setting. I stopped in at an amazing lookout point at Cambewarra lookout. You can hangglide from here (apparently) and they say that on a clear day you can see Sydney (200km away).
I took van to go see a nature hike with some waterfalls... I had some loose directions from the campsite supervisor, a shady map, and a pair of swim trunks ("After a steep climb, you'll come to a waterfall with a perfect little swimming hole") I ended up trying to do a couple of small water crossings through small creeks in the poor old van. She made out just fine, and didn't complain one bit. I turned back when I determined I had gone roughly twice as far as the campsite super had recommended.
I got caught in a downpour back at the campsite, but happily dry in Trusty Rusty, who doesn't seem to mind the rain at all. It was productive. Tonight I got a chance to get caught up on some of the blogging I've sorely neglected.
Ironically, I saw surprisingly few (read in: zero) Kangaroos.
I took van to go see a nature hike with some waterfalls... I had some loose directions from the campsite supervisor, a shady map, and a pair of swim trunks ("After a steep climb, you'll come to a waterfall with a perfect little swimming hole") I ended up trying to do a couple of small water crossings through small creeks in the poor old van. She made out just fine, and didn't complain one bit. I turned back when I determined I had gone roughly twice as far as the campsite super had recommended.
I got caught in a downpour back at the campsite, but happily dry in Trusty Rusty, who doesn't seem to mind the rain at all. It was productive. Tonight I got a chance to get caught up on some of the blogging I've sorely neglected.
Ironically, I saw surprisingly few (read in: zero) Kangaroos.
Jan 15: The Amazing Minamurra Forest
Day started with a swim at Blenheim Beach. I am disappointed a second time by the Kiama Blowhole, as I pass by on my way to the Minamurra rainforest: where I Saw my first Echidna, and beautiful waterfall at the end of a paved trail. I also saw a couple of Lyrebirds, famous for their ability to imitate sounds (like chainsaws and trains).
And then the evening took a turn for the weird. I stayed at a campsite in Nowra (which is not exactly a must-see spot on the tourist roadmap), and the owner, Bill, started out asking me about where I was from...
Me: Canada
Bill: Which part?
Me: Edmonon
Bill: Which part?
Me: The southside
Bill: which part?
Me (jokingly): Near Southgate mall
Bill: You mean the one of 51st Ave?
Turns out he coached rugby at my high school a couple of years after I finished. I'm pretty sure he knows my Uncle David... Small small world...
And then the evening took a turn for the weird. I stayed at a campsite in Nowra (which is not exactly a must-see spot on the tourist roadmap), and the owner, Bill, started out asking me about where I was from...
Me: Canada
Bill: Which part?
Me: Edmonon
Bill: Which part?
Me: The southside
Bill: which part?
Me (jokingly): Near Southgate mall
Bill: You mean the one of 51st Ave?
Turns out he coached rugby at my high school a couple of years after I finished. I'm pretty sure he knows my Uncle David... Small small world...
Jan 14: The Kiama Blowhole Blows
I said my final goodbyes to the Wolskis, and made my way to Kiama to see the famous blowhole. What they don't tell you in the promotional material, is that the blowhole isn't all that exciting in low tide. In fact, it just looks like a giant hole in the rocks.
I made my way back to familiar old Blenheim Beach, where the water is clean, and the camping is easy.
I made my way back to familiar old Blenheim Beach, where the water is clean, and the camping is easy.
Jan 12: Wollongong and the Wolskis
Which is better, a morning that starts with a hike through the mountains, or a morning that starts with a swim in the ocean? Tough call... I was plodding through the mountains for the better part of five hours today. It reminded me of hiking back home, only it was just over 30 degrees and there were little lizards (and a couple of big ones) everywhere.
I spent my afternoon making my way to Wollongong, just south of Sydney. Crista, a good friend from university has been living here since graduating... and it happens that her sister Amy (one of my earliest dance partners) is in town at the tail end of a month long visit.
In fact, the entire Wolski clan is in town... Parents included.
We got a great chance to sit down and catch up.
I spent my afternoon making my way to Wollongong, just south of Sydney. Crista, a good friend from university has been living here since graduating... and it happens that her sister Amy (one of my earliest dance partners) is in town at the tail end of a month long visit.
In fact, the entire Wolski clan is in town... Parents included.
We got a great chance to sit down and catch up.
Jan 13: Trusty Rusty gets a facelift
Hazel and Marshall (Mr and Mrs Wolski) refused to let the van get rolling without a little help. I'm not sure if there is a class of "Professional motorhomers" yet, but if there were, the Wolski's would be top of the group. They have been at it for 30 years. Hazel sewed me curtains faster than it would have taken for me to measure them, while Marshall and I made short work of adjusting the back shelving to fit my little powered cooler
We now have refridgeration! in a tiny little beer cooler!
Next steps: wine racks, flat screen tvs, and a hottub.
We now have refridgeration! in a tiny little beer cooler!
Next steps: wine racks, flat screen tvs, and a hottub.
Jan 11: Insurance and the inaugural drive... To the Blue Mountains and beyond!
Step 1 - get van insurance.
Step 2 - get on the road.
I got insurance for the van and decided to take her for a little spin. I went up to the Blue Mountains, just west of Sydney. It was incredible. I have rarely seen so many perfect vistas along a single hiking trail. There are heaps of waterfalls, and all kinds of interesting wildlife. The signature view is a group of points called the three sisters.
I'm not sure why this part of Australia isn't more popular. It is close to Sydney, most of the hikes are easy walking trails... I'm chalking this up to the fact that there are less bikinis seen on the mountain than on the beach.
Step 2 - get on the road.
I got insurance for the van and decided to take her for a little spin. I went up to the Blue Mountains, just west of Sydney. It was incredible. I have rarely seen so many perfect vistas along a single hiking trail. There are heaps of waterfalls, and all kinds of interesting wildlife. The signature view is a group of points called the three sisters.
I'm not sure why this part of Australia isn't more popular. It is close to Sydney, most of the hikes are easy walking trails... I'm chalking this up to the fact that there are less bikinis seen on the mountain than on the beach.
Jan 10: New day, new beach!
Ken, Vic and Marcus took me across town to visit a new beach today called Maroubra. The three of them are on a Body for Life kick, so there is lots of healthy eating and exercise going on. It is awesome that they all live together and can support each other through the process.
As the day wound down, I started collecting van supplies. For anyone who knows me, I start in the tupperware aisle. I love plastic bins, totes, and especially the little screwtop jar style tupperware. Once sorted, I felt my obsessive compulsive disorder slide into remission, and I began to sort out my plan for the next few days.
As the day wound down, I started collecting van supplies. For anyone who knows me, I start in the tupperware aisle. I love plastic bins, totes, and especially the little screwtop jar style tupperware. Once sorted, I felt my obsessive compulsive disorder slide into remission, and I began to sort out my plan for the next few days.
Jan 9: Trusty Rusty... my not so brand-new Van!
Today is van purchase day. I have withdrawn a giant pile of fancy, colorful, plastic, Australian money. Ken and I head over the bridge to Manly one last time, buy the van and get it registered. I get into the drivers seat, and utter Mick's Australian driving mantra (left, left, left) reminding myself which side of the road to aim for.
We spent the morning at Manly beach, enjoying a perfect Saturday - one of the first beautiful days of the holiday season.
We spent the morning at Manly beach, enjoying a perfect Saturday - one of the first beautiful days of the holiday season.
Jan 8: Trusty Rusty rounds first base
I have decided to pull the pin and take my relationship with Trusty Rusty to the next level. We're going to the mechanic today to have her inspected.
The mechanic says the van is in good shape, save for the dents and the rust. He also notes that the belt on the compressor for the air conditioner is wearing and should be replaced... at which point the guy selling the van says: that thing has air conditioning?
Sold!
Nothing beats 40 degree heat like AC.
I made my way back to the south side of the harbor, stopping at cash machines along the way, taking out as much money as a could...
I have slightly less respect for the banks than I do for the runny snot that freezes to the end of my nose when I ski... They find every possible excuse to shave a couple of points here and there; to carve another inch of your hard earned savings away for the priviledge of doing business with them. Why can't they charge a flat fee? Or offer exchanges as a service. If anyone ever puts me in charge of anything significant, you will see banks toppling the world over... oh wait... that's already happening isn't it? Sweet justice.
The mechanic says the van is in good shape, save for the dents and the rust. He also notes that the belt on the compressor for the air conditioner is wearing and should be replaced... at which point the guy selling the van says: that thing has air conditioning?
Sold!
Nothing beats 40 degree heat like AC.
I made my way back to the south side of the harbor, stopping at cash machines along the way, taking out as much money as a could...
I have slightly less respect for the banks than I do for the runny snot that freezes to the end of my nose when I ski... They find every possible excuse to shave a couple of points here and there; to carve another inch of your hard earned savings away for the priviledge of doing business with them. Why can't they charge a flat fee? Or offer exchanges as a service. If anyone ever puts me in charge of anything significant, you will see banks toppling the world over... oh wait... that's already happening isn't it? Sweet justice.
Jan 7: Mick's longest birthday so far
After 10 days of chaperoning my sorry butt around his home country, Mick is heading home to Calgary. I am going to miss him dearly.
Based on his round the world ticket, Mick ended up flying home on his birthday. Most people get 24 hours to celebrate your birthday. But when you fly across the date line (mid-pacific), you get an extra day back. It is a touch confusing at first, but in this case: Mick left Syndey at 4pm on January 7. He landed in Calgary, 24 hours later, at 9pm on January 7. This means he got to have a 43 hour birthday. I hope he milked it on the flight home :)
I also hope that one day I can influence a school teacher to include this as some sort of a sneaky trick question on a math test... Two planes leave from opposite ends of the pacific...
In celebration of his birthday, Mick let me buy him a birthday pie, meaning a meat pie, topped with mashed potatoes and mushy pease, doused in gravy. Yum!
Based on his round the world ticket, Mick ended up flying home on his birthday. Most people get 24 hours to celebrate your birthday. But when you fly across the date line (mid-pacific), you get an extra day back. It is a touch confusing at first, but in this case: Mick left Syndey at 4pm on January 7. He landed in Calgary, 24 hours later, at 9pm on January 7. This means he got to have a 43 hour birthday. I hope he milked it on the flight home :)
I also hope that one day I can influence a school teacher to include this as some sort of a sneaky trick question on a math test... Two planes leave from opposite ends of the pacific...
In celebration of his birthday, Mick let me buy him a birthday pie, meaning a meat pie, topped with mashed potatoes and mushy pease, doused in gravy. Yum!
Jan 6: Newcastle to Sydney
Another day, another swim in the ocean. I can't believe there are people who get to do this every day! Mick and I split up for the first time since I've been in Australia. Tomorrow he will be catching a flight home to Calgary. Ken and Marcus treat me to a night on the town, complete with train rides, unidentified pubs, and a good-old-fashioned headache the next day.
Jan 5: Canberra to Newcastle
We made the quick jaunt from Newcastle to Canberra, stopping on the way to help me setup an Australian bank account, and get a 3G wireless card for the mini computer I've been dragging around. Now I can check my email anywhere I get a cell phone signal. I'm a little bit revolted by my own excitement...
We met up with a Browyn at the McDonald's on the way past Sydney. Bronnie is one of the few familiar faces I've now seen on opposite sides of the world. She does PR in Australia for the super food chain. While I wasn't a big supporter of Mickie Dee's back home, Maccas (as it is called) I certainly will be in Australia. Not only do they have a handful of smart-calorie options, they also offer free wifi connections.
Newcastle is Mick's hometown. Originally a coal town, it is home to an incredible set of beaches, and some of Sydney's wealthy weekend/retirement properties. In Newcastle we met Mick's parents, his sister, and his two nephews. It is easy to sort out how Mick turned out to be such good egg with such a great family.
We met up with a Browyn at the McDonald's on the way past Sydney. Bronnie is one of the few familiar faces I've now seen on opposite sides of the world. She does PR in Australia for the super food chain. While I wasn't a big supporter of Mickie Dee's back home, Maccas (as it is called) I certainly will be in Australia. Not only do they have a handful of smart-calorie options, they also offer free wifi connections.
Newcastle is Mick's hometown. Originally a coal town, it is home to an incredible set of beaches, and some of Sydney's wealthy weekend/retirement properties. In Newcastle we met Mick's parents, his sister, and his two nephews. It is easy to sort out how Mick turned out to be such good egg with such a great family.
Jan 4: War Museum, Portrait Gallery and the Parliament
Canberra is the capital city of Australia. It was built specifically to be the capital city of Australia. It was built as a compromise, to appease strong public pull to have one of Sydney or Melbourne named the politcal centre. Though it seems mildly silly to settle that argument by building a brand new city and holding it in neither of the most likely locations, it would be mildly hypocritical for me to get all upset about it... since Ottawa is roughly halfway between Toronto and Quebec.
Situated somewhere near the middle of the two major centres, Canberra is a planned community. It feels a little like huge university campus crossed with a surburban planning. It might be the cleanest city I've ever visited. The lake, around which the city is built is artificial. The capital building looks out over the war memorial. Domestically it is known as the easiest place to get fireworks and pornography.
We spent our morning catching up on household duties. I saw my very first redback spider. A redback is a common and highly poisonous spider. It's bite can be lethal to humans if untreated. The scary part is that we saw it in the backyard! We weren't digging through uncharted jungle, or hiking through a remote mountain pass... this was on the screendoor!
Anyways - we spent the rest of the day touring.
We saw the war museum and the National Portrait Gallery. The war museum is great. It is educational, and it makes you feel like a little kid, with all kinds of weaponry and story telling, it reminds me of an adult version of show and tell. The portrait gallery is brilliant. They take some of the most famous figures in Australia (past and present) and showcase their likeness with works of art (usually paintings or scultures). In each case, there is a short biography of the celebrity. I wonder if we have something like this back home.
Our evening was marked with meeting Mick's brother, his girlfriend and their beautiful brand new baby daughter. It was also the first time I'd ever heard anyone call Mick "Michael".
Situated somewhere near the middle of the two major centres, Canberra is a planned community. It feels a little like huge university campus crossed with a surburban planning. It might be the cleanest city I've ever visited. The lake, around which the city is built is artificial. The capital building looks out over the war memorial. Domestically it is known as the easiest place to get fireworks and pornography.
We spent our morning catching up on household duties. I saw my very first redback spider. A redback is a common and highly poisonous spider. It's bite can be lethal to humans if untreated. The scary part is that we saw it in the backyard! We weren't digging through uncharted jungle, or hiking through a remote mountain pass... this was on the screendoor!
Anyways - we spent the rest of the day touring.
We saw the war museum and the National Portrait Gallery. The war museum is great. It is educational, and it makes you feel like a little kid, with all kinds of weaponry and story telling, it reminds me of an adult version of show and tell. The portrait gallery is brilliant. They take some of the most famous figures in Australia (past and present) and showcase their likeness with works of art (usually paintings or scultures). In each case, there is a short biography of the celebrity. I wonder if we have something like this back home.
Our evening was marked with meeting Mick's brother, his girlfriend and their beautiful brand new baby daughter. It was also the first time I'd ever heard anyone call Mick "Michael".
Jan 3: Preliminary van shopping en route to Canberra
Mick volunteered one of precious his days at home to help me shop for vans. We saw a handful of different options, most of which had 300K km on them - ranging in age from 10 to 20 years old. Driving a van across the country is not at all uncommon in Australia. There are a couple of dealerships that specialize in promoting deals specifically to backpackers. We stopped in at one such dealership, and met 4 other individuals selling vans.
This is the day we met Trusty Rusty the first time.
Trusty Rusty is a 1998 Ford Econovan. She has travelled a mere 150,000 km. Originally a workvan, she has been retro-fitted with a mattress and storage area in the back, perfect for the on-the-go carefree lifestyle of a modern day bohemian such as myself. Filled with charateristic dents, and rust patches, she is not without flaw. In fact, I don't think there is a panel on the vehicle that isn't somehow damaged. But her automatic transmission, low mileage, and second battery make her the nicest van we've seen so far.
I agree to sleep on the transaction for a couple of nights. In the meantime, Mick and I proceed directly from van shopping to Canberra.
This is the day we met Trusty Rusty the first time.
Trusty Rusty is a 1998 Ford Econovan. She has travelled a mere 150,000 km. Originally a workvan, she has been retro-fitted with a mattress and storage area in the back, perfect for the on-the-go carefree lifestyle of a modern day bohemian such as myself. Filled with charateristic dents, and rust patches, she is not without flaw. In fact, I don't think there is a panel on the vehicle that isn't somehow damaged. But her automatic transmission, low mileage, and second battery make her the nicest van we've seen so far.
I agree to sleep on the transaction for a couple of nights. In the meantime, Mick and I proceed directly from van shopping to Canberra.
Jan 2: Surf lessons and Van breakdown number 2
I have never tried surfing. I've seen surfing in South Africa and Peru, but I've always been a little shy about learning. I guess we're all geared to guard against failure... especially the public variety. But with Mick and Oscar as the only other two people on the beach I agreed to have Oscar give me a private lesson. The only problem was that by the time the on-beach part of the lesson was over, most of the waves had passed.
We sure looked official in all our gear... but I think Oscar was the only one who managed to catch a wave or two before we had all swallowed enough seawater and decided to call it quits.
On the way home, our van, a 1978 Toyota Hiace pop top camper van, decided she wanted to have a little rest. On the way home from the beach, she stalled on a downhill. We pulled over and found ourselves in a similar predicament - unable to get her started. Our hero, the valiant Oscar plunged into the engine cavity headfirst again. We checked sparkplugs, we reconnected loose leads, and we banged on the airfilter some more. As we progressed, you could tell the battery was having some difficulty in turning over the starter... When she finally roared to life again, we wasted no time and made our way to a parts store to pickup a new distributor cap... hoping that it might help guard against future stops.
We sure looked official in all our gear... but I think Oscar was the only one who managed to catch a wave or two before we had all swallowed enough seawater and decided to call it quits.
On the way home, our van, a 1978 Toyota Hiace pop top camper van, decided she wanted to have a little rest. On the way home from the beach, she stalled on a downhill. We pulled over and found ourselves in a similar predicament - unable to get her started. Our hero, the valiant Oscar plunged into the engine cavity headfirst again. We checked sparkplugs, we reconnected loose leads, and we banged on the airfilter some more. As we progressed, you could tell the battery was having some difficulty in turning over the starter... When she finally roared to life again, we wasted no time and made our way to a parts store to pickup a new distributor cap... hoping that it might help guard against future stops.
Jan 1: New Year... New Problems
As the tradition continues, the first day of the year always seems to involve a bit of a hangover. Well nothing beats a hangover like a giant breakfast and a swim in the ocean. We all hit the beach to try to regain a sense of normalcy.
Mick, Oscar and I finally got going around 3pm en route South again to find a proper surf beach. A scorching hot day, we stopped in the tiny town of Narooma to enjoy a refreshing beer at the pub. We lucked out and found a parking spot, right in front of the bar.
Normally, this would seem like good luck. Of course, normally your car starts without difficulty. In jumps Oscar to the rescue. Armed with a meager set of tools, and a handy 20 year old reference manual, we flip up the seat and begin diagnosing the problem. Or the series of problems. Oscar is courageous (and dare I say ferocious) about attacking the problem,. We are short of oil. The distributor cap seems rusty. The airfilter seems dirty... a half hour in, with much (not-so-helpful) advice from the lively crowd above, we manage to start the van by tapping dust out of the air filter.
We make our way to the beaches at Mimosa Rocks. It was late to start surfing and the waves weren't stellar, so we enjoyed a quiet glass of wine overlooking the ocean instead.
And I saw my very first Wallaby!
And my first possum!
And my first Goana - a giant water monitor lizard!
Mick, Oscar and I finally got going around 3pm en route South again to find a proper surf beach. A scorching hot day, we stopped in the tiny town of Narooma to enjoy a refreshing beer at the pub. We lucked out and found a parking spot, right in front of the bar.
Normally, this would seem like good luck. Of course, normally your car starts without difficulty. In jumps Oscar to the rescue. Armed with a meager set of tools, and a handy 20 year old reference manual, we flip up the seat and begin diagnosing the problem. Or the series of problems. Oscar is courageous (and dare I say ferocious) about attacking the problem,. We are short of oil. The distributor cap seems rusty. The airfilter seems dirty... a half hour in, with much (not-so-helpful) advice from the lively crowd above, we manage to start the van by tapping dust out of the air filter.
We make our way to the beaches at Mimosa Rocks. It was late to start surfing and the waves weren't stellar, so we enjoyed a quiet glass of wine overlooking the ocean instead.
And I saw my very first Wallaby!
And my first possum!
And my first Goana - a giant water monitor lizard!
Dec 30: South Beaches
Our adventure south begins. Mick and I make our way back to Manly beach to find Oscar. We are going to be taking Oscar's camper van south for New Years. There are no specific plans, we are hoping to enjoy the beaches - doing a little snorkelling and a little surfing.
I view this as a sort of a foreshadowing to the rest of my adventure. This is more or less consistent with my plan for the next six months... namely... some loose thinking about start and end points, a van, and... that's about it. The only major difference is that my plan involves a slightly better girl to boy ratio.
We make our way down to Blenheim Beach, a quiet little sub-beach in Jervis Bay. It is absolutely empty, with clear water, clean sand and a handful of people in the general area. While it isn't ideal for surfing or snorkelling, it is a perfect place to do a little swimming.
I view this as a sort of a foreshadowing to the rest of my adventure. This is more or less consistent with my plan for the next six months... namely... some loose thinking about start and end points, a van, and... that's about it. The only major difference is that my plan involves a slightly better girl to boy ratio.
We make our way down to Blenheim Beach, a quiet little sub-beach in Jervis Bay. It is absolutely empty, with clear water, clean sand and a handful of people in the general area. While it isn't ideal for surfing or snorkelling, it is a perfect place to do a little swimming.
Dec 31: New Years Eve
It is New Years Eve, and we are three guys looking to party. We aim south again, this time seeking Bateman's Bay. Oscar has two friends: Mei and Tom, who are staying at a holiday cottage just south of the main population centre at Guerilla Bay.
We meander our way there, stopping at the cove at the edge of Jervis bay for some snorkelling. Oscar has outfitted us all with borrowed equipment from the lab at work - including wetsuits and fins. I am so glad I decided to come to Australia. I spend the better part of 15 minutes chasing a cuttlefish around the reef. He changes color, from brown to pink to orange to match his surroundings. I've got Oscar's waterproof camera and so I got to take a few photos.
We pull in to Bateman's Bay late, but are welcomed by a barbecue. Tom and Mei are excellent hosts, we enjoy a feast of surf and turf: prawns and steak. The five of us sitting outside the oceanside cabin, old friends and new seemed like a truly fitting way to close out the decade, and to start a frech one.
On the east coast of Australia we would have been some of the very first to bring in the new year. I got to yell happy new year and shoot off my fire cracker a full 18 hours ahead of my friends and family in Edmonton. It is kind of like I got a sneak peek at the future... Mei and I did our best to establish 2010 as another epic dance year, punishing the pub's little dance floor.
We meander our way there, stopping at the cove at the edge of Jervis bay for some snorkelling. Oscar has outfitted us all with borrowed equipment from the lab at work - including wetsuits and fins. I am so glad I decided to come to Australia. I spend the better part of 15 minutes chasing a cuttlefish around the reef. He changes color, from brown to pink to orange to match his surroundings. I've got Oscar's waterproof camera and so I got to take a few photos.
We pull in to Bateman's Bay late, but are welcomed by a barbecue. Tom and Mei are excellent hosts, we enjoy a feast of surf and turf: prawns and steak. The five of us sitting outside the oceanside cabin, old friends and new seemed like a truly fitting way to close out the decade, and to start a frech one.
On the east coast of Australia we would have been some of the very first to bring in the new year. I got to yell happy new year and shoot off my fire cracker a full 18 hours ahead of my friends and family in Edmonton. It is kind of like I got a sneak peek at the future... Mei and I did our best to establish 2010 as another epic dance year, punishing the pub's little dance floor.
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